Words and Photos by Floyd and Farah Cowan

Our ride from Suvarnabhumi International Airport turned off Thailand’s north-south highway in Cha am north of Hua Hin. A left turn towards the sea, white sandy beaches, glorious sunrises and quiet retreats . 

One of the first thing we noticed when our limousine pulled into the So/Sofitel Hua Hin, was the large White Rabbit,  staring at the steps to the lobby, wrapped in an orange cape with a large pocket watch around its neck. Was he yearning to be up there? As the Mad Hatter says in Alice in Wonderland: "If you knew Time as well as I do, you wouldn't talk about wasting it." At So/Sofitel  Hua Hin you won’t waste your time, but enjoy every moment of it.

I didn’t ask the rabbit, but I did ask Thanich Wantawee, Assistant Marketing & PR Manager (Nad), who greeted us in the lobby. “What’s that rabbit doing there?” Throughout the resort there are many rabbit images of various sizes and colours and expressions. But as far as I could see, not one hopping alive.  In our room there were at least three. 

Nad explained, it is all part of the theme of Wonderland, as in Alice in Wonderland. We stepped through the Looking Glass into a children centric playground /resort. Rabbits are not the only animals represented here. In the pool at the lobby – there are four pools throughout the property – are images of elephants and crocodiles and hippos.

Even if children aren’t the centre of your world, So/Sofitel Hua Hin has a lot to offer couples who want a peaceful or intimate escape from home’s routines. Here you can make your own wonderful land.

There are 100 SO guestrooms and eight exclusive SO Pool Villas where we were fortunate enough to be domiciled. The rooms are a prime example of how the Resort can meet the needs of both families and couples. The Pool Villas are spacious, so if you have little ones tagging along, you can all share one room with a king size bed and sofa that can accommodate children. If it is just the two of you the décor is delightful. A large vintage suitcase that isn’t a suitcase but a closet is to the right of the door as you enter. One side has the closet door and on the other the TV is attached. By creating smaller spaces it makes the large room cozier. Behind the closet are the shower, the washbasin and toilet – all close, but separate.  To the left a large round white tub – tempts you every time you return. 

The sliding door opens to a lounger, facing the pool, under a sun umbrella. Styles from earlier times are incorporated in many ways. Here, and throughout the resort, Nature comes in and shares its colours and shapes and its mystery. Sea green swims across carpets and counter and table tops. Branches lend their bare, twisted images to glass doors and curtains. The eclectic styling works.

All our lunches were at the White Oven (that is not where you cook white rabbit). Every day the lunch menu is changed. We had arrived at 3:00pm and by the time we had toured the facility with Nad, it was about 4:00pm. Dinner was set for 6:00. We were hungry as we hadn’t eaten since an early light breakfast set us on our way from Pattaya but we didn’t want to fill up now, so close to dinner. So we had Quinoa salad (red onion, tomato, avocado, chicken, cucumber, parsley and pomegranate) a good choice anytime. Satisfying but not too filling.

When we had dinner at Beach Society, time, and the evening, seemed to stand still. The blue air was stone still. A more tropical experience would be hard to find. Facing the Gulf of Thailand, and the Resort’s private beach, the sunset was behind us, and night crept in more silent than a Siamese cat (now national treasures in Thailand), it curled around us and went to sleep while we enjoyed many dishes, including mocktails, chosen by the chef.  Early risers are rewarded with a glittering gold sunrise.

The meal began with excellent crispy calamari that was firm, but not chewy. Chef Cookie poured the red-orange Lobster Bisque, from a carafe into bowels. The aroma, to me, is the essence of the sea. Our mains were Beef Cheek and Spaghetti Vongole. This classic Italian pasta dish has local clams, garlic, olive oil, parsley, and white wine. We each had about half the dish and then switched, so we could try them both. 

The quiet night and the comfortable bed provided a most restful night’s sleep. The rising sun was served along with the International Buffet which would especially satisfy those want a healthy start to their day. A variety of fresh fruit juices always go over well with me.  

Nad had showed us the Kid’s Room where we could get the equipment for mini-golf and for paddle ball. Due to our late arrival we missed out on the ‘Hot Wheels’ activity. There is a track that runs around the perimeter of the hotel. We could’ve taken bikes or scooters around the track. Circumstances again teamed up against us as we went to get clubs, balls and paddles for mini-golf and pickleball. As luck would have it someone booked the pickleball court before we arrived. We wanted to try this sport to see why it has become so popular. But we went for minigolf, battling the ‘hazards’ around the 18-hole course. It was a lot of fun, and Farah came out the winner. This is a great activity for children and adults.

As pickleball was not available we arrived early for our 60 minute ‘bamboo massage’ and 30-minute session in the stream room. I particularly enjoyed the steam room as it cleaned my skin and cleared my sinuses. The spa checks all the boxes. The right aromas, the sinking into the restful ambience, the gentle pressures that take away all the pressure of the outside world.  Be Ah provided an excellent massage.

Drifting out of the spa we met Noi the effervescent spa manager. As it was Christmas time I had no problem envisioning her as one of Santa’s helpers. She was as jolly as old Nick himself though more elfin than the chubby one. She got into the festive mood, describing the singing and dancing of students who would entertain the guests. Of course Santa made an appearance as did a large rabbit – who was directing activities.

Indian was the cuisine for lunch. Butter Chicken, Chicken Tikka and Lamb Rogan were on the menu. Indian Chef de Cuisine, Dabbal Singh Rawat went out of his way to ensure we enjoyed our meal. When he asked us what we would like to drink I said, ‘’Sweet Lassi.” He said they didn’t have it. It wasn’t on the menu, but he made one especially for me. The food was good and plentiful. Farah, who knows her Indian food, had Vegetable Biryani, which she said was good. “Very good. All the food was good.”

Lunch was long and leisurely and it was after 3:00pm by the time we returned to our room. We were enlisted to take part in water activities such as the water scooter and the electric water gun. The guns were lethal looking. The yelling, splashing and frolicking in the water was being enjoyed, and without me. Still feeling a little heavy from lunch I decided to give the pool a pass. I needed to rest up for a busy evening.

Nayang Bat Cave

The minivan took us on back roads between fields, towards the clumps of karst (limestone) hills that create dramatic landscape. After a short drive we pulled off the road to humble store/café that had stairs going up to a viewing platform built expressly for bat viewing. It costs 20B to use the facility at the Nayang Bat Cave. We were the only tourists there, along with a few locals. 

We took a chair at a table where our guide from the hotel directed us. The hotel had provided water, coke, and ham and cheese croissants that we nibbled away at as the sun disappeared behind the hill and the slimmest crescent new moon brightened as the day waned. If you are a bird watcher egrets and swallows are among the many that flit by or stride through the fields.

“Is that where the bats come out,” I asked. 

“No, they come out of smaller caves.”

There were binoculars for our use and we scanned the hills as we waited, but when the bats appeared at 6:15 we didn’t need them. We were told that an estimated two million flew out for the night and then returned in the morning, but maybe a few fewer of them returned as sometimes hawks came to dine on the bat buffet. They go in search of fruit it is said. 

The swarms of bats come in waves upon waves upon waves. They don’t come from just one spot but come from all over the hill, rising out of the ground. You can hear the beating of their wings as they pass overhead, not much higher than the trees. I was enthralled. Two million make an impression.

If you stay at the So/Sofitel Hua Hin make sure you take this in one evening. It is well worth it.

Dinner was in the open air deck of the White Oven. The amazing barbeque set was served and we set to sizzling pork, beef and seafood. Add to that a variety of sauces and it makes for a most delicious meal. Many of the guests were also enjoying this experience.

In the morning I was up about 6:45am and went to the beach where the golden sun was already out. Glimmering off the Gulf. Fishing boats chugged across the glittering water. Up and down the coast the morning gently crept out of the dark. Other guests brought their dogs and their children down to the beach. Quiet personal moments to be remembered.

And after breakfast that was it for us at So/Sofitel Hua Hin. A resort that can be enjoyed anyway you wish. Soft and romantic and restful, or full of fun and family moments.  We appreciated the help and kindness of the staff and enjoyed the activities they arranged for us. 

Nayang Bat Cave

https://www.so-sofitel-huahin.com/things-to-do/explorer/nayang-bat-cave/

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