Exploring Sarawak Along the Pan Borneo Highway
Floyd Cowan explores Sarawak by bus with six other intrepid individuals from the media.
(Sarawak - July 1, 2025) Singaporeans love to drive and many go north into Malaysia and on to Thailand. While you can’t drive to the island of Borneo, once in Kuching, capital of the Malaysian state of Sarawak, there are options for hitting the road. Our group explored this beautiful state over seven days in a new CAM Co-Star, a 6-meter, 20-seater minibus taking the four lane Pan Borneo Highway. When completed in 2027 its 2,083km will link Brunei and the Malaysia states of Sabah and Sarawak. On the bus from Kuching to Miri were six other writers, bloggers, and photographers. CAM (China Auto Manufacturers) a Malaysian automotive brand, specializing in light commercial vehicles, were the major sponsor of this trip. The organization was done by Asian Buses, led by Stefan Pertz and David Bowden, regular contributors to Asian Journeys.
Chinatown Kuching, Malaysia
The journey got off to a stuttering start as our flight from Singapore was delayed about three hours as a Royal Malaysia Airforce plane lost a wheel on landing, resulting in the airport being closed, resulting in us sitting on the tarmac for about two hours before going back to the terminal.
Kuching isn’t a mega city but has a unique charm. It is rich in history, cuisine, culture and opportunities to interact with nature. While the city is not a UNESCO World Heritage Site there are many who believe it should be. In 2021, Kuching was designated as a UNESCO Creative City of Gastronomy, highlighting its rich culinary traditions.
Mike Smith and I, on the same flight, checked into the Pullman Kuching that is currently undergoing renovation, which didn’t affect us. David Bowden was already there, having just covered the Rainforest World Music Festival. After greeting old friends it was refreshing to meet Aileen Anthony who joined us in in the Executive Lounge where we not only enjoyed the great views but the food and drinks as we waited for Stefan and Jacqueline Tan to arrive from Kuala Lumpur. Chad Merchant had a later flight and met us at Jak Ma’an, on Carpenter Street, that serves Bidauyh Cuisine. The menu offers traditional kampung flavors using local ingredients and recipes. This is where you get an authentic cuisine experience of Sarawak to the plaintive strains of Sape music.
With gentle morning rays enriching the colours of heritage buildings along the Sarawak River we were up early to enjoy a local breakfast. Again on Carpenter Street, a few steps from Harmony Arch, we had breakfast in Chinatown. In the buzzing food court I had Sarawak laksa that is more spicey than the Singapore version.
The plan was to explore the Kuching waterfront where much of the built heritage of the capital can be found. I ambled off to the Brooke Dockyard that was constructed in 1912 during the reign of Charles Brooke. I was surprised at not being able to access it as it is surrounded by hoardings but pleased to hear it is being turned into a museum.
The best laid plans of Stefan and CAM were put off the rails when the minibus, coming from peninsular Malaysia, was held up in customs. The afternoon was supposed to be a visit to Semenggoh Nature Reserve, 24 km from Kuching, to see the Orang Utan feeding. Visiting the orang utan is always one of my favorite experiences. I’m not sure they feel the same about seeing me, but as the bus didn’t arrive, we saw nothing of each other.
The highly regarded Izzy’s restaurant, launched by Thomas Yii who also has Tom’s Restaurant, was the fortunate choice for dinner. Thomas wasn’t in but his daughter Isabella made sure we enjoyed what everyone agreed was a great dinner. Both Isabella and Thomas studied in Vancouver, Canada where Isobella did the the pastry course at Vancouver Community College.
The meal’s highlight was the signature Roast Pork Nasi Lemak. David was impressed with the wine list which has quality wines he didn’t expect to find here. Isabella noted that locals like to have a good bottle with their meals. This is an excellent restaurant that you really should try when in the city.
Chin Li introduces CAM Business Development Manager, introduces the audience to the company's products.
The morning was dedicated to a flag off ceremony at Roxy Hotel Kuching attended by staff and management of CAM and YB Dato Sri Haji Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah, Minister for Tourism, Creative Industry & Performing Arts. During his address the Minister noted that popular music festivals that were briefly shutdown, would be making a return. Miri’s Borneo Jazz Festival and the Waterfront Jazz Festival in Kuching will return later this year. He also stated that the Sarawak government would be taking over MAS Wings, rebranding it Borneo Airways and adding jets to the fleet.
YB Dato Sri Haji Abdul Karim Rahman Hamzah, Minister for Tourism, Creative Industry & Performing Arts
In the afternoon we headed out of the city to explore Damai Beach and environs. One of the most luxurious resorts in Kuching, Cove 55, along the highway to Damai Resort, a lovely place on the South China Sea I could spend hours at the beach bar. Damai Resort is adjacent to the Sarawak Cultural Village. Known as “Sarawak’s Living Museum it’s showcases the state’s rich indigenous heritage and their authentic longhouses. Situated on 17 acres this is where the Rainforest World Music Festival is held.
Cove 55
We were warmly greeted by Cove 55 General Manager Christoph Leonhard and Executive Chef Mario Kesemeyer. This luxurious private boutique hotel is where you go when you want a relaxed escape. Originally a private home for a Sarawakian family they turned it into this amazing resort when they realized they weren’t using it very much. The intimate retreat boasts 13 rooms, 2 suites and 13 villas. The very popular infinity pool and Pool Bar face the South China Sea and the morning sunrise. There is a fully equipped Fitness Centre and free Wi-Fi access. The Iban owners’ heritage and culture are evident all aspects of the resort. 
For golfers there is a strong lure that will hook those with a love for the links. A 9-hole course, Matang Jungle Golf, is only available to Cove55 guests and a maximum of four can play the walking course at any one time. Surrounded by mature flora and fauna in rolling hills it features bridges and staircases, making it a challenging and unique experience.
Don’t let anyone tell you Cove55 is an ‘undiscovered’ hideaway. Dinner on a weeknight saw every table full – a tribute to Chef Mario Kesemeyer’s talents and the vibrant staff who make dining there an experience.
While we ate, the CAM Co-Star minibus arrived. We were ready to hit the Pan Borneo Highway the next morning. Right after breakfast there was great anticipation as we settled into the bus, with a five-hour drive – the longest stretch on our Sarawak Road trip – ahead of us.
Leaving the Pullman Kuching where we enjoyed a comfortable 3 days.
Our first stop was to be the market in Serian but by the time we realised we had blown past the exit we were too far along the highway, so we just kept going. This is a problem with the PBH – signage. Signs indicating the exit are placed a few feet from the exit, giving no time to turn. When a big sign that says Nahmee Mart was spotted we pulled in at a strip mall for a break. At every out of the way stop the locals were interested in us. Some shy, but just as many happy to talk. 
Cami - our mascot - makes a new friend at Nahmee Mart
Continuing north we leave the No 1 to visit Fort Alice - now Sri Aman Heritage Museum – in the city of Sri Aman, 12kms in. Built in 1864 it overlooks Batang Lupar River where the British could keep tabs on traffic and pirate activity. There are many canons in and around the wooden fort, weapons and furniture. I enjoyed it. Mike wasn’t impressed. 
Sri Aman Heritage Museum
It is a short walk from the parking lot to the museum and even shorter to Tze Yin Khor Temple that is different than most Chinese Temples in that it has a green roof. The green was chosen for feng shui reasons—specifically to avoid “cooking the crab,” as the temple is built on a “live crab” feng shui site.
Jacq did a Google search for a place to have lunch. She found 72 Kapitan Antique Museum & Restaurant. The collectibles are eye-catching, and the food is top-notch. Coke Cola dominates the ground floor. Bottles, cans, signs, license plates, toy trucks, cars and more cover the walls and decades. There are local Iban items here and on the second floor, along with household goods, suitcases and posters. A love for the movies has gone into this collection which is emphasized by a huge theatre movie projector at the front entrance. 
At 2:30 we are back on the road taking our next break at 4:27, pulling off the highway at the small town of Roban. We had soft drinks at an open-air café where the locals were enjoying cold beer on a hot afternoon. They stared at us. What were we doing there? They were very friendly and bought Mike a beer.
In Sibu we visited the night market and had dinner at a food court before returning to the spacious rooms of the Win Hotel. 
Penghulu Teo Nging Poh, a community leader in Sibu, Chairman of the Federation of Malaysian Car Workshop Owners Association (centre) and a sponsor of our epic journey invited us for breakfast. Kapitan Goh Kee Seng of Huong Seng Motor Trading, (far left) a distributor for CAM, also met us at the recently redone Pasar Sungai Merah food court on the Red River. Kapitan Goh ordered Kambua, a noodle dish, and Kuay Chat. I was told it’s a mixture of everything possible. Delicious.
Mike (left) enjoys his Kopi O while Stefan says "Oh" while Penghulu Teo (far right) fills us in on life in Sibu.
We did a short walking tour that took in Wong Nai Siong Memorial Garden that is a tribute to Wong Nai Siong, a Chinese revolutionary and educator from Fujian, China. He led a wave of Foochow migrants to Sibu in 1901, helping establish one of the earliest Chinese settlements in the region. Then it was off to Pasar Sentral Sibu - the largest such market in Sarawak – at least – some say Southeast Asia. For some in our group it was a highlight of the trip. Every time I’ve gone to Sibu, I’ve gone to the market. Live chickens and ducks wrapped in newspaper, are an attention getter. 
Penghulu Teo hosted an extensive and lunch at Golden Kitchen. The excellent dishes kept coming, interspersed with long yam sengs!!! As some of us enjoyed local tuak. Many of the greens, the vegetables and seafood on the plate we’d seen in the market. Mr Teo pulled a slimy entrail from the sea bass and said, “Who wants this?” No one put their hand up, so I took it. It was chewy and not particularly tasty, and I wasn’t sure why “people would fight for it”. 
He was sure I would like this. Whatever it is.
After lunch we are on the road to Bintulu and the snappy Fairfield by Marriott Bintulu. We wandered through the Night Market, alive with people buying their dinner either to eat there or take home. Grilled pork, duck and chicken are popular.
Tua Dek Kong Chinese Temple
Saturday morning, after indulging in the buffet breakfast, we left the Fairfield but we didn’t immediately hit the road. A tour of the city took us to Tua Dek Kong Chinese temple that is of classic Chinese architecture with extensive ornate carvings and images. There are many dragons and mythical creatures such as kylins and phoenixes, that are Tao symbols. Located on Main Bazaar Road, it survived the bombings of World War II and a major fire in 1975 that destroyed much of Bintulu. As the temple remained unscathed it gained a reputation as a spiritual protector of the town.
Then we headed to Pantai Temasya Tanjung Batu, a park on the coast that is popular for evening walks and sunsets. Family picnics draw locals but not for beach activities as a big sign warns of crocodiles.
For me, the Niah Caves should have been a highlight of the trip, but we didn’t have time to explore them. If you go block out at least a half day. The caves are archaeologically significant —they are home to the earliest known human remains in Southeast Asia, dating back 40,000 to 65,000 years. I visited Niah some years ago and I particularly like Painted Cave that has ancient rock art and is one of four major caves to explore. 
The Visitors Centre, where you buy the entrance ticket, houses the Niah Archaeology Museum. This small, but informative museum, showcases replicas of the 40,000-year-old Deep Skull; burial canoe artifacts and has displays on geology, ecology, and prehistoric life. It is a dank museum that really needs a do over. 
A short drive took us to Min’s Café where we stopped for lunch. From Mins to Tim’s Seaside Hideout Resort, (top photo) along the two lane Q642 Coastal Highway, was about an hour's drive mostly following a tanker truck. Tim is no longer there, and new owner Roger was about to go fishing when we arrived. His parents, David and Ranee, sat with us at the wooden tables at the outdoor café overlooking a beautiful golden sand beach. The 14 Beach Houses can accommodate up to 10 people. If you don’t want to be found, this Hideout is your place.
From Tim’s it is a beautiful drive along the South China Sea to Pullman Waterfront Miri where we stayed for two nights. Warmly greeted by Andy Pian Lemulun, Executive Assistant Manager and Chew Kee Wei, Food and Beverage Manager we settled into the commodious Pullman with its great views over the sea, the river and the city. Andy generously gave us Club Floor privileges, which we took full advantage of.
The Pullman, a 328-room hotel with restaurants and bars, ballrooms and meeting rooms, is conveniently located in the city where the river enters the sea. The infinity pool is hugely popular with children who show no regard for the views. They also take little interest in the pool bar, which makes it even more attractive to adults.
Andy, a Kelabit from Barrio, is a true success story as he began his career in hospitality working up from entry level to his current managerial position. An extend interview with him will be posted on this website.
The views make it ideal for both a relaxing getaway, dining and business meetings. Breakfast is a full international buffet, and the staff are warm as they go about their jobs with a joy I’ve seldom seen. It is good value for money, so If you are in Miri, this should be your first choice.
For dinner we walked a short distance to Yi Hah Har Chinese Restaurant where we were hosted by Darren Yong, Operation Assistant, Yong Lee Lee Transport and his wife Kitty. We were joined by Tan Kim Hoon, Managing Director of KM Mobile and his wife Magdalene Huang. Mr Tan is a big supporter of community events in Miri. Our paths had crossed many years earlier. 
Though I had visited these cities previously it was nice to get off the beaten track and explore new areas with a group who become better friends after a week of travelling together.
CAM
E: info@sendokgroup.com
W: cammalaysia.com.my
Pullman Kuching Waterfront
Interhill Place No. 1A, 93100 Kuching, Sarawak, Malaysia
T: +60 82-222 888
W: all.accor.com/a/en.html
Pullman Miri Waterfront
Lot 1347, Miri Waterfront Commercial Centre, 98000 Miri, Sarawak, Malaysia
T: +60 85-323 888
W: all.accor.com/a/en.html
Izzy’s
166 & 168, Jln Padungan,
93100 Kuching
Sarawak, Malaysia
T: +60 12-831 3633
Cove 55
T: +60 82 846068
Whatsapp: +60 17-808 1088
Reservations: reservations@cove55.com
72 Kapitan Antique Museum & Restaurant
T: +60 14-992 0072
https://www.facebook.com/p/72-Kapitan-100041258746407
Win Hotel
www.winhotels.com.my
Fairfield by Marriott Bintulu Paragon
W: marriott.com/en-us/hotels/btufi-fairfield-bintulu-paragon/overview/
T: +60 86-851888
Tim’s Seaside Resort Hideout
T: +6011-1626 0300
www.timseasideresort.com.my
